Your Keurig brewer sits on the counter, faithfully churning out cup after cup, day after day. It’s easy to take it for granted. You press a button, pop in a K-Cup, and coffee appears like magic. But behind that simple routine is a surprisingly well-engineered machine made up of about 20 individual parts, each with a specific job.
Whether your brewer has started acting up or you’re just the curious type who likes to know how things work, understanding what’s under the hood can save you time, money, and a lot of frustration. A leaky drip tray, a reservoir that won’t click into place, a handle that feels loose — these problems feel a lot less mysterious once you know the parts involved.
And the good news is, you don’t need a mechanical engineering degree to make sense of it all. Every component is designed to be user-friendly, and most of them are easy to access, clean, or replace on your own. Let’s break down each part so you know exactly what you’re working with.
Keurig Parts Diagram & Details
The diagram featured here is based on the Keurig Special Edition Model B60 Brewer, one of the most popular and widely used models in the Keurig lineup. It presents an exploded view of the machine, with each component pulled apart and labeled with a letter from A through T. On the left side, you’ll find the physical parts of the brewer — things like the water reservoir, the housing, the handle, and the drip tray assembly. On the right side, the diagram highlights the controls and indicators, including the LCD screen, various buttons, and the power switch.
What makes this diagram especially helpful is how clearly it shows where each piece sits in relation to the others. You can trace how the water reservoir connects to the main housing, how the K-Cup holder assembly nests inside the brewer, and how the drip tray components stack together at the base.
Below, you’ll find a detailed explanation of every single part shown in the diagram. Each one is numbered and described so you can understand its role, where it’s located, and why it matters.
1. Water Reservoir Lid (A)
The water reservoir lid is the topmost cover that sits on the water reservoir itself. Its main job is straightforward: keep dust, debris, and anything else from falling into your water supply. But it plays a secondary role that’s easy to overlook — it helps reduce evaporation, keeping your water level more consistent between refills.
You’ll notice it’s designed to lift off easily with one hand, which is a small but thoughtful detail when you’re topping off the reservoir mid-morning. If your lid cracks or warps, replacement lids are available from Keurig and tend to be inexpensive. It’s a minor part, but skipping it means your coffee could pick up odors or particles from the kitchen air.
2. Water Reservoir (B)
This is the large, removable container on the side of the brewer that holds all your fresh water. On the B60 model, it has a generous capacity — typically around 48 ounces — which means you can brew several cups before needing a refill. The reservoir is made of BPA-free plastic, and it lifts right off the machine for easy filling at the sink.
Over time, mineral deposits from your tap water can build up inside the reservoir. That chalky white residue isn’t harmful, but it can affect taste and slow down your brew. Giving the reservoir a rinse with a vinegar-and-water mixture every few weeks keeps things running clean. If you notice a persistent film that won’t scrub off, replacement reservoirs are available and snap right into the same spot.
3. Water Reservoir Lock Tab Slots (C)
These small slots on the side of the brewer are what keep the water reservoir securely attached to the machine. When you slide the reservoir into place, small tabs on the reservoir click into these slots, locking it firmly so it doesn’t wobble or pop off while the brewer is running.
It’s a feature you probably never think about — until something goes wrong. If your reservoir keeps sliding out of place or doesn’t feel snug, the issue is often with these lock tab slots. Mineral buildup or dried coffee residue around the slots can prevent a proper connection. A quick wipe with a damp cloth usually solves the problem.
If the tabs on the reservoir itself are cracked or broken, the reservoir may need replacing. But the slots on the brewer side are part of the housing and are quite durable.
4. Handle (D)
The handle is the lever on the top of the brewer that you lift to open the K-Cup holder and close it before brewing. It operates on a simple hinge mechanism, and it’s designed to require just enough force to puncture the top of the K-Cup when you press it down. That puncture allows hot water to flow through the coffee grounds inside.
Because you use the handle every single time you brew, it’s one of the parts that sees the most wear. If it starts feeling loose or doesn’t close completely, there’s a good chance the hinge or the internal needle has accumulated coffee grounds. Lifting the handle and wiping around the needle area with a damp paper towel can make a noticeable difference.
5. K-Cup Portion Pack Holder (E)
This is the small, cup-shaped piece that cradles the K-Cup during brewing. Together with the funnel (Part F), it forms the K-Cup Holder Assembly. The holder has a small needle at the bottom that punctures the underside of the K-Cup, allowing brewed coffee to flow down and out into your mug.
The holder is removable, and that’s important because it needs occasional cleaning. Coffee grounds and oils build up around the exit needle over time, and if you’ve ever had a cup that tasted weaker than usual, a clogged holder is often the culprit. Pull it out, rinse it under warm running water, and use a paperclip to gently clear the needle. It takes about thirty seconds and can dramatically improve your brew quality.
6. Funnel (F)
The funnel sits directly beneath the K-Cup holder and guides the brewed coffee downward into your cup. It’s the second half of the K-Cup Holder Assembly, and while it doesn’t have any moving parts, it plays a critical role in making sure your coffee lands where it should — in the mug, not all over the drip tray.
Residue from repeated brewing can collect inside the funnel, especially if you use flavored K-Cups. Those oils tend to be stickier than standard coffee oils. Rinsing the funnel alongside the K-Cup holder every week or so prevents any off-flavors from creeping into your cup. It pops out easily and snaps back in without any tools.
7. Lid (G)
This is the smaller lid or cover that sits on top of the K-Cup Portion Pack Assembly Housing. It flips open when you lift the main handle and closes when you press it down. Its primary purpose is to enclose the top of the K-Cup area, creating a sealed brewing chamber so that pressurized hot water is forced through the coffee grounds rather than escaping out the top.
A proper seal here matters more than you might expect. If the lid is cracked, warped, or has buildup along its edges, you could end up with a weaker brew or water leaking out during the cycle. Keeping the edges of this lid clean ensures a tight fit every time.
8. K-Cup Portion Pack Assembly Housing (H)
This is the outer shell that surrounds and supports the K-Cup holder and funnel. Think of it as the docking station for your K-Cup assembly — it holds everything in alignment so the needles puncture the pod correctly and the water flows through in the right direction.
The housing is fixed to the brewer and doesn’t come off like the holder and funnel do. Cleaning it involves wiping down the inside surfaces with a damp cloth and making sure no stray coffee grounds have accumulated around the seating area. If grounds build up here, the K-Cup holder won’t seat properly, which can lead to incomplete punctures and messy brews.
Because the housing holds everything together, it’s one of the more structurally important parts of the machine. Fortunately, it’s built to last and rarely needs replacing.
9. Housing (I)
The housing is the main body of the entire brewer — the large outer casing that contains the internal water pump, heating element, tubing, and electronics. Everything else attaches to or fits inside this central structure. On the B60, it has a clean, compact profile that doesn’t take up too much counter space.
You won’t need to open the housing for routine maintenance. But it’s good to wipe down the exterior regularly and keep the area around the base free of water or spills. If water pools underneath the brewer repeatedly, it could be a sign of an internal leak, which would require professional attention or a replacement.
10. Drip Tray Plate (J)
The drip tray plate is the flat, often perforated piece that sits on top of the drip tray. Your mug rests on this plate during brewing. Its design allows any overflow or drips to pass through into the tray below, keeping the surface from becoming a puddle.
Depending on your mug size, you may need to adjust or remove this plate. Many Keurig models, including the B60, allow you to slide the drip tray plate off to accommodate taller travel mugs. The perforations can collect dried coffee over time, so a quick soak in warm soapy water every now and then keeps it looking and functioning like new.
11. Drip Tray (K)
Sitting just below the drip tray plate, the drip tray catches any liquid that overflows or drips during and after brewing. It’s a shallow, removable tray that slides out from the front of the machine.
You’ll want to empty this more often than you think. It fills up quietly, and if you’re not paying attention, it can overflow and leave a sticky mess on your countertop. Most people find that checking it every couple of days — or after a particularly busy morning — does the trick. It’s dishwasher safe on most Keurig models, which makes cleanup effortless.
12. Drip Tray Base (L)
The drip tray base is the platform or frame that supports both the drip tray and the drip tray plate. It connects to the front of the brewer and ensures the whole tray assembly stays level and secure. Without a solid base, the tray would wobble or slide, which would defeat the purpose of catching drips in the first place.
This part rarely needs attention on its own, but if your drip tray isn’t sitting flush with the brewer, it’s worth checking that the base hasn’t shifted or cracked. A stable base means a stable tray, and a stable tray means no surprise spills on the counter.
13. Vent (M)
Located on the back or side of the brewer, the vent allows excess heat and steam to escape during the brewing process. The internal heating element generates a significant amount of heat to get water up to the ideal brewing temperature, and that heat has to go somewhere.
Blocking the vent — by pushing the brewer against a wall or stacking items nearby — can cause the machine to overheat and shut down. Leave at least a couple of inches of clearance around the vent area. If you notice your Keurig taking longer than usual to heat up, or if it shuts off mid-brew, restricted airflow through the vent is one of the first things to check.
14. Power Cord (N)
The power cord connects the brewer to your wall outlet and supplies the electricity needed to run the pump, heating element, and control panel. On the B60, it’s a standard-length cord that’s long enough for most countertop setups.
One thing to keep in mind is that Keurig brewers draw a fair amount of power during the heating phase — typically around 1,400 watts. Plugging the brewer into an outlet shared with other high-wattage appliances (like a toaster or microwave) on the same circuit could trip a breaker. A dedicated outlet, or at least one that isn’t overloaded, gives you the most reliable performance.
15. Cup/Hour/Minus Button (O)
This button serves a dual purpose. During normal operation, pressing it selects the smaller cup brew size. When you’re in the settings menu, it functions as the hour or minus button, allowing you to scroll backward through options or decrease values — like adjusting the auto-off timer or setting the clock.
Its placement on the front control panel makes it easy to reach without looking, which is a nice touch first thing in the morning when your eyes are still adjusting to the light.
16. Mug Button (P)
Pressing the mug button selects a mid-sized brew — larger than the cup setting but smaller than the travel mug option. It’s the “Goldilocks” setting for most standard coffee mugs you’d find in your kitchen cabinet.
Getting the right brew size dialed in makes a real difference in taste. Too little water and the coffee can taste overly strong or bitter. Too much water and it’ll taste thin. The mug button gives you a nice balance for an everyday cup without having to fiddle with custom settings.
17. Travel Mug/Minute/Plus Button (Q)
This is the button you’ll reach for when you’re headed out the door with a tall travel mug. It brews the largest volume of water the B60 offers in a single cycle. Like the cup button, it doubles as a settings control — functioning as the minute or plus button when you’re in the menu, letting you scroll forward through options or increase values.
If your travel mug is especially tall, remember to remove the drip tray plate (and possibly the drip tray itself) to make room. Brewing a full travel mug size into a short cup will result in a very messy overflow — a lesson most Keurig owners only need to learn once.
18. Menu Button (R)
The menu button gives you access to the brewer’s internal settings. Pressing it cycles you through options like brew temperature, auto-off timing, and the clock display. On the B60, the settings aren’t overly complicated, but they give you enough control to customize the brewer to your preferences.
Playing around with the brew temperature setting can be especially useful. If your coffee never feels quite hot enough, bumping up the temperature a notch may be all you need. The menu button is your gateway to these small but meaningful adjustments.
19. LCD Control Center (S)
The LCD screen is the visual hub of the brewer. It displays the current time, your selected brew size, brewing status, and any alerts like “Add Water” or “Descale.” On the B60, it’s a backlit display that’s easy to read even in a dimly lit kitchen.
What makes the LCD particularly handy is the real-time feedback it provides. You can see exactly what setting you’ve selected before the brew starts, which eliminates a lot of guesswork. If the screen ever goes blank or starts flickering, it’s usually an electrical connection issue — check the power cord and outlet before assuming the screen itself is faulty.
20. Power Button (T)
The power button turns the brewer on and off. On the B60, pressing it initiates a brief warm-up cycle before the machine is ready to brew. A small indicator light lets you know when the brewer has reached the right temperature.
One practical tip: if you don’t use the auto-off feature, get in the habit of pressing the power button when you’re done for the day. Leaving the brewer on continuously keeps the internal heating element running, which uses electricity and can shorten the lifespan of the heater over time. A quick press at the end of your morning routine is all it takes.
